Perhaps you listened to FiberTalk recently, when Susan Greening Davis was the guest. Susan created some controversy by stating that when using 2 strands of embroidery floss on linen up to 36 count, she would use and recommend a No 22 tapestry needle.
This certainly sounds pretty large, but I actually agree with her most wholeheartedly.
Recently I’ve been stitching with 1 ply wool, on a range of counts, up to 40 count. It is very fine wool on very fine linen. I had been using a No 26 tapestry needle, but I found that the wool was wearing, and getting little “burrs” that would catch on the fabric every time I pulled the needle through. While the wool seems quite thin, because of those little bits of wool fuzz that stick out from the main core of the thread, it’s actually a bit thicker than it looks.
So I changed to a No 24 tapestry needle. Oh, it made all the difference in the world! My wool no longer gets the little burrs and it doesn’t abrade in the same way. It certainly looks like a huge needle, but it is the RIGHT size for the thread.
I found that when using a chenille needle with the wool thread, I was much happier with a No 22 chenille needle than a 24 chenille. This is because when using the chenille needle, I’m stitching not only through the holes in the linen fabric (smooth), but also through some of the previously stitched wool thread (fuzzy). It just works better to go bigger again. The larger needle (22) makes finishing off thread ends a little difficult, so for finishing threads, I change to a 24, and it’s quite easy again.
The important thing is the thread, NOT the count of the fabric. You need to use a needle that creates a hole large enough for the doubled over thread to go through. You need to account for the doubled thread, because when it goes through the eye of the needle, it comes out both sides, and is therefore doubled, until the end of the tail.
In my Portuguese whitework classes, I supply a No 24 tapestry needle, to go with the No 8 pearl cotton, working on 38 count linen. This needle seems big for the count of the fabric, but the count of the fabric isn’t the important thing. The thickness of the thread is. And for that thickness, it’s the right needle. I have had students who protest and surreptitiously pull out their own needles and change over to a 26 or even 28. When I come around to them, and feel their needle with their thread, yes, it feels lovely and dainty, however, it really is too small. Some people won’t be convinced!
In each case, the thicker needle looks much more appropriate, despite the fact that you might think they’re going to be way too big.
The question often is: “Won’t it create large holes in my fabric?” Well, yes. That is the idea! Most of the time, with most linens, those holes happily close over. The holes it makes won’t be there forever. Even linens that are a little more wiry, such as Permin linen, will close over as you work with the linen and it softens up.
Some fabrics, such as silk, you do need to be more careful with. I would probably err on the side of smaller rather than larger, but still keeping in mind the doubled thickness of your thread.
So what do you think of all this? Do you think Susan and I am talking rubbish? Do you use a small, dainty needle, no matter what you’re doing, just because it feels nice? Do you choose according to the thread thickness? Do you choose according to the fabric count? Are you willing to give larger needles a go?
Unfortunately the winner of the Hardanger that I was stitching at the Sydney Craft and Quilt Fair, whose name I drew last week, did not contact me within the week (I even gave a few days extra!), so I have redrawn the prize. The new winner, again drawn totally at random, is Catherine Robinson.
White Threads is the blog of Yvette Stanton, the author, designer, publisher behind Vetty Creations' quality needlework books and embroidery products.
