White Threads

The other day I received an interesting question in one of the comments on bullion stitch: thread twist and wrapping direction. It was from Michael of the delightfully named http://www.wormspit.com. He wrote:

I’ve been working with silk and making various kinds of thread for different purposes. So far, most of my threads have been first-twisted Z and then plied S, or twisted as a very loose Z-twist single. Are there particular techniques other than bouillon where you think thread-ply makes a significant difference?

What a wonderfully technical question. My first thought was “I dunno!”, but on further consideration, I realised that yes, there were other instances where thread twist has an effect on embroidery stitches.

The most obvious stitch is the French knot, because it is so similar to bullion knots. Using a thread of the opposite twist, yet the same wrapping direction, would make a difference to the appearance of the knot.

The other main stitch that I can think of is any sort of couching stitch where the tie-down stitch is long and slanted across the laid stitch. This could include Roumanian couching, New England laid stitch, Bokhara couching and Indian filling.

With these stitches, a thread or stitch is laid along the fabric, then a shorter stitch is worked across the laid stitch, on an angle, to hold it down. Depending on which way you work the angled stitch, it will either meld into the laid stitch, or be pronounced across the top of it. Conversely, by keeping the stitch angle the same, but by using the opposite twist of thread, you can create the same difference of effect – the stitch will either meld into the laid stitch, or be pronounced across the top of it.

Another stitch where thread twist will make a difference is stem stitch/outline stitch. These are both linear stitches, where each subsequent stitch overlaps with half of the previous ones. With stem stitch, when working from right to left, the needle emerges above the previous stitch. Outline stitch is basically the same stitch, but the needle emerges below the previous stitch.

With an S twist thread (as most threads are) stem stitch creates an effect where each stitch is pronounced and separate, much like the appearance of a 2 ply cord. With outline stitch, the stitches meld together. Changing to Z twist thread would mean that stem would give the melded appearance, and outline would give the cord-like appearance.

Yet another stitch where it could conceivably make a difference (oh, this is fun – thanks Michael!) is Jessica stitch, which is a needlepoint stitch. It basically is a wide stem/outline stitch worked usually around the edge of a circle to produce a swirl-like effect. Because of its similarity to stem stitch, changing the thread twist would have a similar effect.

While the effect would be minimal, unless using a very thick thread, it would also have an effect on the twisted, purl edge of buttonhole stitch. Also any whipped stitch, such as whipped buttonhole, whipped stem, whipped running stitch etc.

I’m sure there are others too, so please make your suggestions in the comments.

Michael, I hope that has answered your question. If it brings up more questions, please ask them. I think I like your questions, because they are so thought provoking!

Okay, today we are going to look at one of the most controversial aspects of bullion stitch (what – you didn’t know there were controversial aspects?!).

Thread twist and wrapping direction are completely intertwined. (So sorry, didn’t mean for that to be a pun…)

Let’s look at thread twist first. There are two types of thread twist, known as S twist and Z twist. Most threads, such as perle cotton and stranded floss, are S twist. If you look at a piece of thread close up, you will see that the stripes on an S twist thread, due to the way the ply of the thread twist together, appear to go:
\
\
\
\
like the middle section of an s.

Rayon threads that are used for Brazilian embroidery and a few others, are usually Z twist. This means that looking close up, you will see the stripes on the thread look like this:
/
/
/
/
like the middle section of a z.

So why does this make any difference to a bullion?

When we wrap a bullion around a needle, we can either wrap clockwise or anticlockwise, and both will create a completely different result.

This is the controversial bit actually, because I maintain that you can wrap either way, whereas many people say that for S twist thread, you should only wrap clockwise.

Piffle, I say! Please indulge me and get out a needle and thread, and try each way I suggest here (and if you only have S twist thread, just do those ones, or vice versa if you only have Z twist thread) as it will help you to understand what I am talking about.

When you wrap clockwise with an S twist thread, the thread ply untwists and can flatten out like a ribbon, with each of the ply lying next to each other, making a wide wrap round the needle. When you do this, it means that the surface of the bullion looks very smooth, as you mostly see the fine individual strands of the thread ply, rather than the thread as a whole strand.

When you wrap anticlockwise with an S twist, the thread twists more, so that the resulting bullion shows very tightly wrapped threads. These type of bullions look somewhat bulkier and more substantial than the previous type, as the wraps are full thickness around the central core, as opposed to having only the full thickness of each ply of the thread around the central core.

With Z twist threads, you get completely the opposite effect, because the thread twists in the opposite direction. That means that with Z twist and anticlockwise, you’ll get the smooth finely wrapped looking bullion, and with clockwise wrapping you’ll get a fatter bullion with more distinct, tightly twisted wraps.

Some people find that one way is easier for them than others. That’s absolutely fine. If you find clockwise wrapping easier with an S twist thread, then do them that way. Use whichever method gives you a better result, or the appearance that you desire.

So, you can wrap both ways. It just gives a different effect. But just because you can, doesn’t mean you have to.

If you are new to bullions, try a few of each way – some clockwise, and some anticlockwise. Then work out which gives you a consistently better result, and use that method. If, however, you get good results with either, happily, you will be able to choose which appearance to use.

If you missed yesterday’s post, you missed the first in the series on tips for working better bullion stitch. You can find the post here.

If you find these tips helpful, please let me know, and share the blog post address with others. I do not give permission for these instructions to be reproduced elsewhere, but you are welcome to tell people where to find them. Thanks for respecting my copyright.

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