White Threads

Cross stitch and the way the stitches cross

I have spent a lot of time in museums studying embroidery, while researching my embroidery books. One very memorable day for me was seeing a very old cross-stitched textile. The crosses went every which way. It was a charming piece, and a revelation to me. The stitcher had not cared which way their stitches went, preferring instead to focus on the design itself. It did not detract from the piece. It was gorgeous. Ever since, I have wondered why contemporary cross stitchers are so caught up in the way their stitches cross.

A couple of days ago, I was reading a post in a Facebook group where someone wanted to improve upon their cross stitching. This is an admirable goal, and one I fully support. I always want to be improving my stitching.

I replied with the words in above. I also put them on my Facebook page, and it generated a lot of very interesting discussion!

Other people replied with things like “this \ half cross should be first and then / half cross” (I probably have that around the wrong way), “they must all cross the same way”, and “it should sit on the fabric like this…” My immediate reaction was “Why?”

Now, there might be a very good reason as to their “why”, but they didn’t share that. Sometimes I wonder if the things we take as gospel have any good basis behind them. Do we just accept them because they were told to us by someone we respect and who is more knowledgable than us? How far back does this passing on of knowledge go before we find that it was just an arbitrary decision someone made generations ago?

Maybe there is a good reason. If so, I’d love to know what it is! Maybe it really does sit better that way. Maybe that method uses less thread. Maybe something else…

When I’m teaching, I really like to explain the WHY. You may have noticed this in my videos. I’m also not content to just accept the received wisdom about stitching and stitches. I like to test things out for myself. And so I’m thinking of testing out plain old simple cross stitches; the way they’re done, and the way they interact with the fabric threads.

Would this be interesting to you? Any suggestions for my variables?

White Threads FlossTube #26 – Researching my current book

In this White Threads FlossTube video, Yvette presents a talk she gave at a conference dinner early in 2019 at The Auckland Great Escape. It is about the research for the book she is currently working on, though obviously when she originally presented the talk she was at an earlier stage in the book process. The book has now nearly reached the stage where Yvette can reveal its subject matter, so an announcement will be made soon.

This talk is just one of many that Yvette has presented over the years. She is available to present to your group, gathering or conference. In this age of Zoom, it is worthwhile pointing out that Yvette probably doesn’t even need to be physically present to give talks, anymore. Though once the world reopens to travel again, that could be a possibility.

If you are interested in Yvette presenting a talk or lecture for your event, please get in contact with her. She would be happy to discuss your requirements for a speaking engagement.

If you are reading this in an email, the video can be found at https://youtu.be/oNaDNcyROUg

There was an error in the previous FlossTube email, in that you were pointed to the wrong video if you followed the link. I sincerely apologise for this! When I was alerted to it, I fixed it on the actual blog, but I couldn’t take the email back and correct it! If you didn’t get to see the correct video last time, you can find it at https://youtu.be/jMXAFiBBdM0.

White Threads FlossTube #25 – non-counted eyelets and a great starting method

In this tutorial, Yvette demonstrates the method she uses for the eyelets in Portuguese whitework. These are non-counted eyelets. (She has already done a great tutorial for counted eyelets.) These eyelets also include Yvette’s revolutionary method for starting and finishing which mean you can have an eyelet in the middle of an expanse of fabric, with nothing other than itself to anchor the threads under.

The clever method for starting or anchoring the thread under these eyelets can also be used for other applications, so Yvette also shows you how that can be really useful.

She also shows the Square Mat from her book “Portuguese Whitework: Bullion Embroidery from Guimarães”, and the french-language version of the book “Broderie Créative: La Broderie Blanche Portugaise”.

If you are reading this in an email, the video can be found at https://youtu.be/jMXAFiBBdM0

Episode notes:
Square Mat project, Portuguese Whitework: Bullion Embroidery from Guimarães by Yvette Stanton
Broderie Créative: La Broderie Blanche Portugaise by Yvette Stanton
Wash out fabric pencil
Portuguese whitework supplies: 38 count linen, No 8 pearl cotton, No 4 straw/milliners needles

White Threads FlossTube #24 – Bunad Magazine review

In today’s episode of White Threads FlossTube, following the suggestion that people would like to know more about what’s on my bookshelves (they were my background in the previous episode), I review Bunad Magazine from Norway. It’s a visually delicious magazine about folk and regional costume in Norway, in Norwegian language only, but that’s never bothered me as the pictures are so pretty! Lots of lovely embroidery, clothes, knitting and even jewellery.

If you are reading this in an email, you can find the video at https://youtu.be/ebUwuT7PCBs

Episode notes:
https://bunad-magasinet.no

White Threads FlossTube #23 – My favourite embroidery hoop (and why)!

Some people have expressed an interest in knowing the things that are in my embroidery kit. Today I tell you all about my favourite hoop (it’s a Klass and Gessmann 8 inch hoop with stand) and why I love it.

If you are reading this in an email, you can find the video here https://youtu.be/37cRhSpjMKw

Episode notes:
Klass and Gessmann embroidery hoops and stand
You will need to purchase a hoop (or more than one) AND a stand (base section) for this system to work. You cannot purchase JUST the hoop (unless you already have a stand), as they come on a stick/dowel which inserts into the base section which is purchased separately. You can choose the hoop sizes that are most useful to you to go with your stand.

White Threads FlossTube #22 – Does the end of your stitch make a difference?

Does the end of your stitch make a difference? Does it make a difference whether the thread that leads into the stitch remains straight (like in running stitch) or folds (like in back stitch)? This is something I have been thinking about, so I investigated whether it changes the look of the stitch.

I looked at running and back stitch, bullions worked in a line, satin stitch, and seed stitch. I wanted to know whether a folded end on a stitch would make the stitch have more distinct ends or sit up higher, or whether the whole effect was just something I was dreaming up.

Have you noticed this at all? If you think it makes a difference, can you think of any other stitches it might make a difference to?

If you are reading this in an email, the video can be found at https://youtu.be/gliTZUmo0e0

The Right-Handed Embroiderers Companion and The Left-Handed Embroiderers Companion If you are interested in experimenting with stitches, you might find my stitch dictionaries helpful:
The Right-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion
The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion

White Threads FlossTube #21 – How to make traditional Norwegian picots

In this video tutorial, Yvette teaches you how to make traditional Norwegian knotted picots as were used in historical examples of Hardanger embroidery. These picots can be used anywhere picots are required, such as in Hardanger embroidery, on needlelace edgings, drawn thread borders etc.

She shows examples of picots used on the cuff and collars of a shirt, including the shirt she is wearing.

The method is also shown in step-by-step instructions with clear diagrams, for both left- and right-handed stitchers in her book “Early-Style Hardanger”.

If you are reading this in an email, the video can be found here.

Episode notes:
Early-Style Hardanger by Yvette Stanton

White Threads FlossTube #20 – Hardanger lampshade and Norwegian Constitution Day Parade, Bergen

A few years ago Yvette travelled to Norway to research her book “Early-Style Hardanger”. She was there for Norwegian Constitution Day (Syttende Mai or 17th May, so coming up very soon!) when people parade through the towns in their bunads, or traditional dress. She saw many beautiful examples of embroidered regional costume that day, including the folk dress from the Hardanger region.

It was the embroidery on the bands of the Hardanger aprons that she had in mind when she designed the band of embroidery for her Hardanger lampshade. In this video, Yvette shows you the embroidery on the lampshade and details the stitches used and other important features. She also shows some happy snaps from her time in Bergen, enjoying the Syttende Mai parade.

If you’re reading this in an email, the video can be found at https://youtu.be/4U8FvPaJYj4

Episode notes:
Early-Style Hardanger by Yvette Stanton
36 count linen fabric
50/3 and 80/3 Londonderry linen thread
No 26 tapestry needles
scissors

White Threads FlossTube #19 – Mountmellick embroidery and buttonhole stitch

In this episode of White Threads Floss Tube, Yvette Stanton talks about Mountmellick embroidery. She shows her Dogrose and Honeysuckle Mountmellick Doily, and her Mountmellick Pomegranate Biscornu. Buttonhole stitch is a common stitch used in Mountmellick embroidery, and she explores the different ways it is used on these two projects.

Following on from the discussion of thread twist in episode 18, where Yvette mentioned that buttonhole stitch was one that was affected by thread twist, she demonstrates how thread twist and stitching direction have an affect on the appearance of buttonhole stitch.

If you’re reading this in an email, the video can be found at https://youtu.be/Lq7A6vrP6bQ

Episode notes:
Stitches mentioned:
buttonhole stitch, p20, 2nd edition of “Mountmellick Embroidery: Inspired by Nature” by Yvette Stanton and Prue Scott
stepped buttonhole, p20
padded buttonhole, p20
whipped buttonhole, p22

Mountmellick Embroidery: Inspired by Nature by Yvette Stanton and Prue Scott
Mountmellick Pomegranate Biscornu kit
Mountmellick cotton satin jean fabric
Mountmellick thread
Mountmellick knitting cotton
Embroidery needles for Mountmellick
Hoops with stands

White Threads FlossTube #18 – more on thread twist

Following on from White Threads FlossTube 17, quite a few people asked for more discussion of thread twist. So here it is: demonstrations of stem stitch/outline stitch and whipped back stitch and the difference that thread twist makes to them.

If you’re reading this in an email, you can find the video here: https://youtu.be/FUAEannF2m8

Episode notes
Stitches mentioned in this episode of White Threads Flosstube:
Stem stitch, p146 “The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion” and “The Right-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion” by Yvette Stanton
Outline stitch, p147
Bullion stitch, p18
French knot, p94
Portuguese knotted stem stitch, p148
Satin stitch, p132-135
buttonhole/blanket stitch, p21-22
whipped back stitch, p12

The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion by Yvette Stanton
The Right-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion by Yvette Stanton