On the weekend we took a break and went away with some friends to Negash Lodge, near Wollisso about 1 1/2 hours south west of Addis. We left after Friday afternoon’s activities were complete, and then got stuck in traffic trying to leave Addis.
Eventually we made it out of town. The road was thankfully sealed and very good. The drive took us through very flat farming country. I loved seeing the farms and villages with their tukuls (traditional houses). Some were round, which is what I am used to seeing, others were square, and others were hexagonal. There were also many of the newer types of traditional homes with the mud and straw walls, and corrugated iron roofing.
It began to get dark, and we were only working with very vague instructions of where to find the lodge. We eventually were able to discern the name “Wollisso” (or some variant spelling, of which there seem to be many) on a town sign. Our instructions said something about the main road, a church and an unexpectedly rough road. Hmm… not really much to go on there, and we had the added bonus that the town was without power, so there was no street lighting with which to read signs off the side of the road.
We went pretty much all the way through town, then turned around and came slowly back. Eventually our friend who was driving saw a sign saying “Negash Lodge”, but with no indication of WHERE it was. We therefore just assumed it was down the adjacent road. This road was unsealed. But it was not unexpectedly rough. That’s not because we were expecting it to be rough – it just wasn’t rough!
Eventually we found it. Yay! Because of the traffic, it had taken us a lot longer to get there than we had anticipated, and the stress of trying to find somewhere with only vague instructions, in the dark, had been decidedly tiring!
We spent the weekend eating, sleeping, lounging by the pool, swimming, eating, protecting our food from vervet monkeys, resting, eating, eating…
We saw quite a bit of wildlife, with there being many vervet monkeys, only too willing to steal the food from your table. There were also Colobus monkeys, and rock hyraxes. We saw several unusual (to me) birds, and glimpsed a deer making its way through the resort.
The houses were all constructed in the style of various Ethiopian people groups. Ours was Dorze house, which was like a beehive made from woven bamboo fibre. It was very tall, and had a loft where the girls slept. They really liked it, and decided they’d like a house just like it at home. Somehow I don’t think NSW planning or bushfire laws would allow it…
We had a lovely weekend away with friends. The kids all got on really well, and we enjoyed the adult company. The food was great, though there was way too much of it!
Over the last few days I have reviewed some of the books on my bookshelf. These were some that I used during the writing of my stitch dictionary The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion: a step-by-step stitch dictionary. There were of course, others, and we may get to them in the future.
Coming to spend three months here in Africa, I had to decide, at the beginning, what books I would bring with me. In the end I brought just one: my left-handed book! I knew that it had in it all the stitches that I was likely to need, and as it happens, I’ve been using it as a prop at my very first ever author’s talks at my daughters’ school this week! (I think it is hilarious that they want me to do author’s talks, but as you can imagine, its not every day they have access to authors here!)
Anyway, it made me think about which needlework books I would place on the pile if I was going somewhere where I could only take five.
- The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion: a step-by-step stitch dictionary by Yvette Stanton (me!). I’d bring this because I put the stitches in there, so I know the wide range of stitches it has in it.
- Mary Thomas’s Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches by Mary Thomas. This is a small book, jam-packed with good stuff. It would have to go in the pile. See my recent review.
- The Stitches of Creative Embroidery by Jacqueline Enthoven. This has a great range of stitches too. Not heaps of diagrams, but lots of interesting text. Good inspiration pics too.
- Three Hundred Years of Embroidery 1600-1900: Treasures from the collection of the Embroiderers’ Guild of Great Britain by Pauline Johnstone. I bought this book many years ago at the Art Gallery of South Australia. I have always liked it, and often just go back and have another look. I guess I like it because it is full of historical embroidery.
- I’m sorry, I’ve sat here and thunked and thunked, but I can’t come up with a fifth book, when I am thousands of miles away from my actual book collection…
So, what are your five most favourite needlework books – the ones that would have to go with you if you could take only five? And WHY those particular books?
If five is too hard (as it was for me), then fewer is ok. 
If you come up with some suggestions that I’m not familiar with, I’ll have great delight in looking them up!
Another book from my bookshelf: “The Constance Howard Book of Stitches” by Constance Howard.
 This book has been repackaged in recent years with an appealing modern-looking cover. Unfortunately the insides are all still black and white – there was an errata notice in mine saying that the colour plates mentioned were not actually included.
I nearly didn’t delve into this book when I first picked it off the shelf at my guild library, because of the black and white photos. (I do like colour!) But on closer inspection I saw how this book is absolute gold in terms of the inspiration it provides for using stitches in creative and interesting ways.
I was going to borrow it from the library, but then I realised that it would be a book that I would refer to again and again, and decided that I actually needed to purchase my own copy. So I did!
This book was invaluable to me as I created the inspiration stitch panels for my book The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion: a step-by-step stitch dictionary. It prompted me to push my experimentation with stitches much further than I otherwise would have.
I love the way it uses different textured threads, different weights of thread, different scales of stitch… and I even grew to love the fact that all the thread shows up as white (in the black and white photos) because it stopped me from being distracted by colour, and allowed me to only see the stitches.
The book is not very instructional on how to work the stitches. There are some basic instructions, but you will probably want to use another book to teach you the stitches.
However, this book is pure inspiration.
Another review of a book from my personal bookshelf: “The Complete Stitch Encyclopedia” by Jan Eaton.
 This book is an excellent reference for those who want to see a lot of different stitches. It has a wealth of information, and there are surface stitches, counted stitches, insertions and edgings. Each one has their own photograph of either the finished stitch or the stitch during construction, and a paragraph or two about the stitch.
The book is divided into text pages and image pages. Each text page has information about the stitches that follow on the image page, including alternate names and a quick description of how to work the stitch. Because the written information is on one page, and the accompanying photo on the next, it does mean that you have to flip back and forth a bit. Perhaps this could have been better organised.
The photos are generally quite clear, though often only having one photo for each entire stitch process does mean that you have to glean a fair bit of information from the written instructions. For those of us who are used to step-by-step stitch directions in the style of Country Bumpkin’s A-Z books, this takes a bit of getting used to. There are a few stitches in this book that I just could not figure out from the text and diagram combined – there just wasn’t enough information. I find this a good book to look up stitches or get ideas from, then go elsewhere to learn how to do them.
All the stitches in this book are separate from each other. There are no pictures showing them combined, or used for any particular purpose. This is not a book to inspire creative use of stitches; it shows them in isolation only.
Despite these drawbacks, the range of stitches is what makes this book so good. There are just so many, and with the stitches grouped as they are, it makes interesting reading figuring out which stitches are related.
In summary, I wouldn’t rely on this book to teach me new stitches, but I do look to it as a good place to find new ones.
Today I am going to post a review of a book from my bookshelf: “Mary Thomas’s Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches”. This is a book I own and love.
 In recent years, this book was completely overhauled and revised. Unfortunately I don’t like the new version at all. It looks cheap and nasty, and just doesn’t appeal to me. It gives me the impression that it has been “dumbed down”.
My copy of this book is the 1934 edition, and it is a real gem. It is a small hardcover book, with text and line drawings. It has a wonderful range of stitches, and while some of the instructions can be a little hard to follow, it is a book I would not be without.
Occasionally I would look at the method presented for a complicated stitch with lots of thread and needle manipulation and think “Surely there has to be an easier way than that?” So I would sit there and persist until I was able to get the exact same result, using an easier method. Often it would take some time and problem solving, but it was always great when I achieved it.
The text of this book is fabulously interesting. Its the type of book I would read from cover to cover, because it is so fascinating. (Yeah, maybe I should get out more – who reads stitch dictionaries from cover to cover?!)
If ever I want to look up a stitch, this is the book I go to (well, it used to be, before I wrote and published my own stitch dictionary!). Every embroiderer who is interested in stitches should own a copy of this book.
For those who love textiles, Ethiopia is a surprisingly rich place. Before we came here, I knew that Ethiopia had many different regional styles of cultural dress, but I really didn’t know what I might find in the way of embroidery.
I was surprised to find that embroidery is easily found in Ethiopia, though you do have to look carefully to find good quality.
When we were on our northern tour, I kept a lookout for places to see and buy embroidery, but what I saw was very crude and not for the discerning embroidery buyer. Doesn’t mean that good quality work wasn’t there – I just never found it. Of course, I did see embroidery and Ethiopian textiles every day: particularly in the country, traditional clothing is common on older women.
Since being in Addis, I have learned of and visited several places that are worth recommending for those who might want to purchase Ethiopian textiles and embroidery.
Keep in mind that people do not use street names in Addis, so the best I can do for you is to describe locations in relation to other landmarks. (Good luck in finding the places!!)
Shiro Meda
This is the best place in Addis to see traditional textiles. It is a market area on the road to Entoto Mountain in the north of the city. If you head north from Arat Kilo up towards Addis Ababa University, and keep going, you will soon find Shiro Meda market area on both sides of the road. If you find you’re going up the mountain already, you’ve missed it (how?!) and will need to turn around and look more carefully on your way back!
Here you can find habesha tibeb (traditional Ethiopian dress), in many different regional styles. Some are made with coloured woven borders, others are embroidered – some by hand, others by machine. Obviously you will expect to pay more for hand embroidered work, as opposed to those with woven details or machine embroidered.
Depending on the amount of embroidery, and its quality, you could pay several thousand birr for a beautiful hand-embroidered traditional tibeb from the Axum region. (I do desire one of these, but as that’s several hundred Australian dollars, I can’t justify it for something I will admire greatly but never wear!)
There are also much more simple hand embroidered garments in the Addis style. I bought a reasonable quality women’s blouse with hand embroidery on the front for 100birr (and I’m not saying that’s a good price because I didn’t haggle, but I was happy to pay it).
Gabis are heavy woven shawls used for warmth as clothing and blankets, and netelas are lightweight, cheesecloth style scarves with beautiful woven bands on the ends. These and other traditional clothing can be found here. You can also find woven or embroidered tablecloths, bedcovers, and cushion covers.
If you want modern habesha (national Ethiopian) clothing, you can get it made to measure here, in most of the little souks. Just choose your fabric and the style and order it. I have no idea about turnaround times or prices, as I have not done this. But it can be done!
Hilton Hotel
This is probably the second best hotel in Addis, after the Sheraton. It is located in the Kasanches area. The Hilton has a good range of souvenir shops, and despite it being in one of top hotels, the prices are good and reasonable. Don’t feel that you’ll be being ripped off by buying at the Hilton, because you won’t be.
Here you can buy beautiful woven scarfs, hand embroidered clothing, pot-holders, cushion covers etc. There are many different shops – some on the outside, near Novis Supermarket, others inside on entry level, and still more downstairs on the pool level.
To enter the Hilton, you will have to pass through a bag check, possibly a pat-down search, and you may need to show ID.
NGO bazaar
On the last Sunday of each month at IEC (International Evangelical Church) in Sarbeit, the NGO (non-government organisation) bazaar is held. There is a small cover charge for entry (something like 3 birr per person) and then you are free to wander, enjoy and purchase!
We were only here for one of these, but it was an event NOT to be missed. I think ALL westerners in Addis turn up at this on the day it is on. All roads lead to Rome, and all Westerners go to the NGO bazaar.
You can purchase good quality souvenirs and gifts, including a great range of textiles and embroidered items such as the ubiquitous scarves, pot-holders, cushion covers, aprons, fabric toys etc. There is also a great range of pottery, jewellery, wood work, processional crosses, woven wool mats and hangings, and food.
And all proceeds go to NGOs working with Ethiopians to improve their lot. Some of the NGOs I recognised included Alert Leprosy Hospital, and the Gemini Trust which supports families with twins (as a twin, this had resonance for me!). So, great products, great causes.
Sabahar
Beautiful handwoven silk and cotton products, as part of the fledgling silk producing industry of Ethiopia. Uses Eri silk, which is soft and has a slight sheen. Gorgeous colours, mostly from natural dyes. Clothing such as scarves and gabis, and homewares such as throws, bedcovers, cushions and tablemats.
This is in Mekanisa, and is not easy to find. When you’re on the right road, its behind the Salam Nurses College, but you’ll have to find that first. Best to ask an expat to show you where it is – hopefully they’ll know! Taxi drivers will have no idea where it is, though of course they’ll know where Mekanisa is.
Otherwise, Sabahar scarves can be purchased at the Ethnological Museum gift shop, or at more inflated prices in one of the shops at the Sheraton.
A place I don’t know the name of
This is really specific, isn’t it?! There is a shop which is something to do with small/micro businesses on the road heading southish to Mexico roundabout, just past the Ethiopian Roads Authority (ERA), sort of opposite Wabe Shebele Hotel. I haven’t been to this shop (hence not knowing its actually name), but going past in the taxi, it looked to have a great range of textiles.
Various souvenir shops dotted all around the city
There are souvenir shops everywhere. In some of these you can find beautiful woven and/or embroidered textiles. We explored a good number on Churchill Avenue, near the Tewodros Square cannon. Purchased some simple embroidered Addis-style garments (blouse and top) for our daughters. Do try them on though, as when we got home, we found that on one of them the head-hole was too small, and required some swift alterations, so that the little dear could wear it that day – so excited was she!
There are also a lot of souvenir shops in the Posta Bet area (that’s ‘Post Office’), though we haven’t personally explored these.
There will be other places, but as I don’t know of them, I can’t share them with you!
There are of course some things that I will not miss about living in Addis:
- washing all our clothes by hand
- the lack of reliable electricity
- bleaching all our fruit and vegetables
- the taste of the drinking water
- the smog
- so many potholes in the road
- the smell of fruit street
- the breakfast cereals we have here
- the smell of open drains
- whatever insect it is that bites us while in bed
- not being able to drink tap water
- seeing real poverty and not knowing what to do about it
Recently I received the following comment from RM of England about my book The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion:
Hello Yvette, Just thought I’d let you know I found your LH Companion at the London Bead Company and bought it. Its wonderful and just looking at the instructions I could follow them straight away. Unless you are left-handed its difficult to explain to folk just how hard it can be to have to constantly turn everything round in your mind, for someone who is bordering dyslexic its a nightmare.
And from YD in Queensland, also about The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion:
My copy arrived yesterday. Am so thrilled to have pictures that show the needle pointing to the right (and not the left). The illustrations demonstrating finger positions etc. will be most helpful. Thank you.
Went to a QCWA meeting today. Couldn’t resist taking my new book along to show the ladies – although there are no other left handed crafters among them, a couple said that they had friends who were left handed and had difficulty following instructions. Will pass on your mailing address in case they would like to order the book for themselves.
Thank you to RM and YD – I love hearing from you, and am glad that you are so pleased with The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion.
If you are left-handed, or know someone who is left-handed, why not purchase your copy of The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion today? Ask for it at your local needlework store, and if they don’t already have it, ask them to get it in for you! It might help them if you give the ISBN: 9780975767733.
You can also purchase it directly from Vetty Creations.
Following on from the things I am looking forward to when we go home, today I am listing the things I will miss here in Addis.
- 1 birr buns – these are lovely fresh baguettes that cost only 1 birr each – just less than 10c Australian
- the cinnamon here – it is so wonderfully strong smelling and absolutely delicious tasting
- my new friends
- the temperate weather
- the cheap cost of living – half a kilo each of beans, carrots and tomatoes for about 90c Australian for the lot
- the view of the hills surrounding Addis from our bedroom window
- the friendliness of the people as you walk down the street
- the cornerstore just 2 seconds away where things often cost less than elsewhere, and the fresh food is good quality
- the kids having friends living downstairs and across the road, that they can play with at the drop of a hat
- Ethiopian food
- and maybe even the early morning call to prayer, because that’s how I know that dawn is approaching
On Saturday morning we went to the Ethnological Museum (also known as the Institute of Ethiopian Studies Museum) in the grounds of Addis Ababa University.
It was FASCINATING! This museum has a good write up in the Lonely Planet guide, but it was SO good!
The museum itself is housed in the magnificent palace that used to be Haile Selassie’s. When you enter, just past the gift shop (where there are nice souvenirs at reasonable prices) there is a large room with a temporary exhibition of Ethiopian basketweaving. Now, during our travels we have seen various examples of basketweaving here, but until we saw this exhibit, I had not fully appreciated how gorgeous the weaving can be, and how the best weavers are absolute masters of colour and pattern.
Then there is the permanent exhibition, which starts with an exploration of childhood, and moves through the ages and stages of the lifecycle, ending with death (and a small nod at afterlife!). It covered children’s toys, stories to teach children morals, marriage, children being born, adulthood, religion (there are three main religions: Ethiopian Orthodox Christianity, Islam and Judaism), clothing (including weaving and embroidery), coffee, honey, tools, war, death, and burial, amongst other things.
Unlike the National Museum (with Lucy) that we visited a week or two ago, all the exhibits were extremely well labelled, with lots to read and learn. I think this is what made it so particularly interesting – because we learnt more about the different people groups of Ethiopia, which are extremely diverse. It meant that we gained some understanding of what we were seeing, rather than just looking at objects.
Then we moved on to Haile Selassie’s apartments, and saw some beautiful examples of goldwork encrusted gowns. I have never really been all that interested in trying goldwork for myself, but keeping on seeing so many beautiful examples has made me think I just might give it a go when we get back home! (Though I must remind myself that as a beginner, my skills will NOT be able to produce the simply gorgeous work that was on these royal ceremonial robes!)
We saw the empress’s ensuite and bedroom, and the emperor’s ensuite and bathroom. Haile Selassie’s bathroom was bigger than our loungeroom at home. Though that’s not really saying much as our loungeroom is quite small! But his bathroom was expansive, and full of marble. How do you explain what a bidet is to a six-year-old, while out in public? I sufficed for “its part of the toileting process for some people.”
Out the front of the museum there is a most unusual “sculpture”, consisting of a concrete or stone (not sure which, though concrete seems more appropriate) stairs spiralling upwards. Each step represents a year of Italian Fascist rule over Ethiopia. Right on top is a lion, placed there by the Ethiopians once the Italians had been overthrown. “Smug” and “triumphant” would be good words to describe the feeling that must have accompanied its placement!
Afterwards we wandered down the street, to a bookshop that my librarian husband had been wanting to visit. On the way, a young Ethiopian man joined me and my daughter as we walked and asked us what we thought of his country. I said that we loved it. He also asked how we saw it. I replied that I saw it as a country full of lovely people who are extremely friendly and welcoming. And I do see it that way. We have felt very welcome here.
Further down the street an older man proclaimed at us as we passed “Enjoy our country, while you can!”. While he was being friendly, I did think there was an undertone of doom that made me wonder if he knew something that I didn’t. However, I replied happily to him “We ARE enjoying your country!”
The bookshop was a complete disappointment, so on we went home. If ever in Addis, and you get the chance to visit the Ethnological Museum, do, as it is so very interesting.
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White Threads is the blog of Yvette Stanton, the author, designer, publisher behind Vetty Creations quality needlework books and embroidery products.
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