Perhaps you listened to FiberTalk recently, when Susan Greening Davis was the guest. Susan created some controversy by stating that when using 2 strands of embroidery floss on linen up to 36 count, she would use and recommend a No 22 tapestry needle.
This certainly sounds pretty large, but I actually agree with her most wholeheartedly.
Recently I’ve been stitching with 1 ply wool, on a range of counts, up to 40 count. It is very fine wool on very fine linen. I had been using a No 26 tapestry needle, but I found that the wool was wearing, and getting little “burrs” that would catch on the fabric every time I pulled the needle through. While the wool seems quite thin, because of those little bits of wool fuzz that stick out from the main core of the thread, it’s actually a bit thicker than it looks.
So I changed to a No 24 tapestry needle. Oh, it made all the difference in the world! My wool no longer gets the little burrs and it doesn’t abrade in the same way. It certainly looks like a huge needle, but it is the RIGHT size for the thread.
I found that when using a chenille needle with the wool thread, I was much happier with a No 22 chenille needle than a 24 chenille. This is because when using the chenille needle, I’m stitching not only through the holes in the linen fabric (smooth), but also through some of the previously stitched wool thread (fuzzy). It just works better to go bigger again. The larger needle (22) makes finishing off thread ends a little difficult, so for finishing threads, I change to a 24, and it’s quite easy again.
The important thing is the thread, NOT the count of the fabric. You need to use a needle that creates a hole large enough for the doubled over thread to go through. You need to account for the doubled thread, because when it goes through the eye of the needle, it comes out both sides, and is therefore doubled, until the end of the tail.
In my Portuguese whitework classes, I supply a No 24 tapestry needle, to go with the No 8 pearl cotton, working on 38 count linen. This needle seems big for the count of the fabric, but the count of the fabric isn’t the important thing. The thickness of the thread is. And for that thickness, it’s the right needle. I have had students who protest and surreptitiously pull out their own needles and change over to a 26 or even 28. When I come around to them, and feel their needle with their thread, yes, it feels lovely and dainty, however, it really is too small. Some people won’t be convinced!
In each case, the thicker needle looks much more appropriate, despite the fact that you might think they’re going to be way too big.
The question often is: “Won’t it create large holes in my fabric?” Well, yes. That is the idea! Most of the time, with most linens, those holes happily close over. The holes it makes won’t be there forever. Even linens that are a little more wiry, such as Permin linen, will close over as you work with the linen and it softens up.
Some fabrics, such as silk, you do need to be more careful with. I would probably err on the side of smaller rather than larger, but still keeping in mind the doubled thickness of your thread.
So what do you think of all this? Do you think Susan and I am talking rubbish? Do you use a small, dainty needle, no matter what you’re doing, just because it feels nice? Do you choose according to the thread thickness? Do you choose according to the fabric count? Are you willing to give larger needles a go?
White Threads is the blog of Yvette Stanton, the author, designer, publisher behind Vetty Creations' quality needlework books and embroidery products.
Vary good sense, Yvette – not rubbish at all! The needle needs to be big enough that the ‘shoulders’ of the thread (where it goes through the eye) don’t stick out and rub on the fabric. The needle should take most of the strain. Both tapestry and chenille needles have slightly broader eyes for their shaft thickness compared to crewel/embroidery needles, which helps, but you need a good hole for the thread. Of course, larger needles are easier to thread, too, which is a bonus! There are two other tips: move the thread in the eye frequently, so the same piece of thread isn’t being the shoulders all the time, and when you pull the thread through, grip the thread just behind the needle, as soon as you can, to take strain off the place where the thread goes through the eye. Doing these three things will keep the thread looking good and allow you to work with longer lengths if you want to.
Thanks Sue. Of course, *I* don’t think I’m talking rubbish, but some people do, because they only ever use small and dainty needles, regardless of what they’re stitching with, and won’t be pursuaded otherwise. 😉 I like your extra tips, thanks!
I was taught right at the beginning of my embroidery education, that the needle needs to be big enough to for, a comfortable hole in the fabric for the thread to pass, and this does sometimes mean moving to a larger needle. I read somewhere recently that someone was struggling to thread their needle, and it was because their needle was so small compared to their thread. The comment back was that they like a small needle! I’d prefer to have a nicer finish and keep the integrity of my thread. Great article, thanks Yvette!
I am currently doing a counted cross stitch on 22 count even weave fabric, using a #28 tapestry needle and a single strand of DMC cotton thread. It works well for this, but I can appreciate that a larger needle is better for the crewel work I also do
I totally agree with you!
In my stitching, I have found your advice about needles to be correct. My preference is to use the smallest needle I can get away with using. However, I have learned over time that the smallest needle isn’t a correct one for the exact reason you argued-the thread. If the thread is shredding, the needle size is too small. That is the long and short of it, regardless of the thread fiber, cotton, silk, wool, etc. I didn’t have the benefit of having read your article before I learned this, unfortunately for me. I have also found that your observations about holes in the fabric are correct, and correct across fabric fiber types (leather is an exception, possibly). It’s all practice, the working and figuring out of these things! Thank you for your time and effort in providing us with accurate and careful instruction.
Thanks Nell! And yes, I agree that leather would be an exception with the holes!