Last year in New Zealand, I taught some Mountmellick embroidery classes. Mountmellick thread is very different to other threads: it is thick, has a number of strands though is non-divisible, and is completely matte. For those who are used to stitching with, say, a single strand of cotton floss, it is a very different experience! It can take a bit of adjusting!
In one class, the students were making good progress, however a couple of them mentioned that they weren’t entirely happy with their stitching and they felt that it might be the chenille needles’ fault (John James brand). They felt that the eye was not treating the thread well. As I had some spare chenille needles of the same size (DMC brand), I gave one to each student to try.
The difference was immediate, for those who changed over.
There may have been a bunch of the John James ones that had been manufactured in a way so that there were burrs or sharp bits inside the eye. These were either cutting into the thread or snagging the thread.
The substitute DMC needles obviously had a smoother eye, and therefore the problems disappeared.
It may just have been a bad batch, but I think the important things we can learn from this are as follows:
– paying more for a needle does not guarantee a better needle. I think there is a lot of needle snobbery going around. Sure, some more expensive needles are better quality, but that doesn’t mean the more economical needles are rubbish. I sell DMC brand needles and I really like them. I find they work very well for me.
– if you’re having difficulty with your thread in your needle – maybe it is snagging in the eye, or the thread seems to be shredding – swap your needle for a different one of the same size. A different brand or different packet mean that you can be surer you’re getting one from a different batch. If you use another one from the original packet, you can’t be sure that it isn’t a bad batch.
Of course, there could be many other reasons that the thread isn’t behaving well, such as operator error (!), or it could be that the needle is too small. However, switching your needle for one of the same size is an easy way to try to improve things.
https://www.vettycreations.com.au/catalogue-needles.html#needles
White Threads is the blog of Yvette Stanton, the author, designer, publisher behind Vetty Creations' quality needlework books and embroidery products.
About 20 years ago I discovered how important good needles are to the embroidery experience. Having a needle that glides effortlessly through the fabric is incredibly satisfying and just makes everything better. If I have a good needle (and scissors) I’m a pretty happy embroiderer.
I generally only use two sizes of needles: crewel #10 and chenille #26. Others come and go but I can’t live without crewel #10s and chenille #26s! 😉
My own favourite brand is Bohin, but I like Tulips as well. I know there are other quality brands available. The main thing is to find needles that work for you.
I use many different sizes and types of needles because I do many different types of embroidery with many different threads. To limit myself to just two needle sizes would be extremely limiting to me, and there’d be much I couldn’t do, if that was the case! 🙂
Thank you for posting. That is really interesting. It has been a long time since I have compared needles. I have, however, purchased the ball-tip needles (recently) and really like them for needle weaving, teneriffe, button making etc. Also, nice for cross stitch and canvas work.
Oh goodness, yes. And add to that, if you happen to be the sort of person who’s skin reacts with the needles, the needles may become rough and have to be swapped out anyway. Aaarrgh!
Yes, I go through periods where I do react and turn needles black, and others where I don’t.
Between dabbling in needlework of various types, sewing, and quilting, I’m well stocked with all sorts of types, sizes, brands & ages. Tracking which package I pull one from is not something I pay attention to, unless the package is put in with the project.
It’s sad how far the quality has dropped. Even pins – I bought a package of brass safety pins about 15 years ago, they were lovely – pointy, slipped into the quilts easily. Another package same brand & size purchased about 5 years ago – HORRID! About 1/3 were dull points, won’t go through a quilt, much softer metal. The last straight pins I bought were similar – about 1/3 not usable, I could even see the points curved over, snags in the plating, etc.
The worst of it is not the aggravation of having to discard it and reach for another, it’s when they damage the thread or fabric…ARRRGH!
I’ve encountered a few bad batches of John James needles. Usually they’re ok, but occasionally they have problems stamping the eyes. They don’t seem to have a quality control department.
I mostly use Bohin needles. I’ve never encountered a bad one; the only issue I’ve ever had with them was a batch of tapestry needles that were nearly as sharp as chenilles. I’m not sure whether that was a manufacturing error or a packaging error. (I suspect the latter, especially as I bought them in bulk rather than in Bohin packaging and it seems most likely that the shop mixed them up.)
I do use John James for some of the sizes/types that Bohin doesn’t make. (e.g., #12 crewel needles) but I don’t like them as much.
I’m convinced that DMC must sell completely different needles in Australia. The DMC needles here in the US are just awful. I have to admit that I haven’t bought any DMC needles in the past decade, so my experience with DMC needles may be out of date. Perhaps they’ve improved over time.
Just the other day I was helping Claire thread a needle that was shredding her thread. Turned out to be a DMC needle. I offered her one of my Bohin needles but she still has a few packages of DMC tapestry needles that she refuses to throw out until she’s tried them all.