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Tutorial: how to determine thread count

Sometimes it is necessary to figure out what the thread count of a fabric is, as you may not know what the thread count for the fabric is, or you may not trust the reported thread count. Thread count is the number of threads per inch, and could differ between the warp (down the length of the fabric) and weft (across the fabric, from side to side).

An evenweave fabric is said to have a constant thread count across the fabric. Most fabrics are not made with an evenweave thread count, as there just isn’t any need for it. It doesn’t worry me if my new dress has the same number of threads across and down, over the same distance. However, for embroidery such as counted work, it can be necessary to know that the fabric is evenweave, and what the thread count is.

So how can you work it out?

Insert a pin *anywhere* in the fabric.

determining thread countUsing a ruler or tape measure, measure 1 inch from the pin, in line with the threads of the fabric. At the end of the 1 inch measurement, insert another pin into the fabric. Do this along both the warp and the weft from the original pin.

Count the threads between the original pin and the second pin. If there are 36 threads, then it has a thread count of 36. If there are 25 threads, then the fabric is 25 count.

Count the threads between the original pin and the third pin. You will learn the thread count for that dimension of the fabric.

Hopefully the two numbers are the same! If they are, then you will know exactly what the thread count is. If they are not the same, then probably they are close, and it will give you an idea of the thread count.

Usually thread count is measured across an inch of fabric, even in places like Australia where we don’t make measurements in inches, but sometimes it is measured across a centimetre. If it is, it will be noted. e.g. 10 threads per cm.

October 12th, 2010 | Category: embroidery musings, hints and tips

8 comments to Tutorial: how to determine thread count

  • Lakshmi Sadala
    October 12, 2010 at 10:48 am

    Thanks Yvette for the information..

  • yvette
    October 12, 2010 at 11:39 am

    My pleasure!

  • Tutorial: Determining thread count · Needlework News @ CraftGossip
    October 13, 2010 at 6:44 am

    […] Yvette Stanton of White Threads blog takes the mystery out of evenweave fabric. She explains what it is and why it’s important for counted-thread embroidery. And she shows us how to figure out a fabric’s thread count and whether it is evenweave. See her post. […]

  • Elmsley Rose
    October 16, 2010 at 2:18 am

    Thankyou for this, Yvette!

    I’ve just thought of a way to remember warp and weft directions (which I was wondering about the other day). Weft goes between right and LEFT. (ie the rhyme)

  • yvette
    October 16, 2010 at 6:23 am

    Yes, that’s how I remember it – weft goes left to right.

  • ANEESH
    April 23, 2013 at 6:04 pm

    thanks very much

  • Swati
    January 5, 2017 at 9:24 pm

    What a useful article. Thank you so much

  • Lupe
    September 8, 2018 at 11:29 pm

    I just checked a pillow case that has a thread count of 160 when I measure the weft I get 80 threads each way so it must mean thread area.

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Yvette Stanton White Threads is the blog of Yvette Stanton, the author, designer, publisher behind Vetty Creations' quality needlework books and embroidery products.

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