I had a question the other day about transferring patterns onto fabric, so I thought I would write a tutorial on some of the techniques that I have used to transfer patterns onto fabric.
Tracing. Place the fabric over the pattern, on a lightbox (or hold it up to a lighted window – hard on the arms!) and trace it onto the fabric. I usually use a sharp pencil with a light touch. In the past I did use water-soluble fabric markers, but I got a bit scared about these, and now only use them on very rare occasions. The pencil has to be light enough that it can be washed out or covered over. Thick, heavy black lines are no-one’s friend…
This tracing method only works when you have fabric thin enough to see through. For something like velvet, it wouldn’t work at all.
Dressmakers carbon. Another way is to use dressmakers carbon. This usually comes in a range of colours, and you can choose one that will show up on your fabric, without it screaming that it is there! Dressmakers carbon does not wash out (well, not that I have found!) so it needs to be completely coverable.
To use dressmakers carbon, lay the carbon paper coloured side down on the fabric, then lay the pattern over the top. Trace over the pattern. I usually use a ballpoint pen to give me a strong, fine line.
This method works well on dark fabric, as you don’t have to see through it, and you can choose a light-ish coloured carbon so that it shows up well. It does not work well on pile fabrics, or some with a rough surface. I tried it recently on slightly fuzzy knit fabric, and it did not work at all.
Tulle. With this method, you lay a piece of tulle over the pattern and trace it onto the tulle. Then you lay the tulle over the fabric and use a pencil, or sharp dressmakers (or tailors) chalk (for dark fabric) to trace the pattern, so that it goes through the tulle and onto the fabric.
This doubles the amount of tracing, but can work well.
Tacking. For this method, you trace the pattern onto lightweight paper such as greaseproof food wrap and pin it onto the fabric. Then, using a thread that is close but not too close to the fabric colour, tack along the lines of the pattern, keeping most of the stitching on top of the fabric. You will need to use shorter stitches around curves so that you get a more accurate idea of the pattern. When the pattern is fully tacked on, you can carefully rip away the paper (without dislodging the ends of the tacking threads!) leaving the basted pattern.
The basting can be removed at the end, or if completely covered, left in place.
Water-soluble fabric. With this method you trace the pattern onto the water-soluble fabric. Do not use a water-based pen, as it could start to dissolve the fabric even before you’ve used it! Pin or tack the water-soluble fabric in place, and stitch the pattern as if the water-soluble fabric were not even there. At the end, the work needs to be dunked and rinsed well in water to remove all residue from the water-soluble fabric. Without a good rinse, the fabric tends to remain a bit stiff as if it has been starched (and depending on the type of water-soluble fabric you use, it may well be made of a type of starch!)
This method is not suitable for fabrics that can’t be washed, or metallic threads. When not in use, the water-soluble fabric should be kept in an airtight bag, especially if you live in a damp or humid climate.
Prick and pounce. I’ve never used this method, and wouldn’t know where to begin. However, the lovely Tanja Berlin, who trained at the Royal School of Needlework, uses it and she has a good explanation of how to do it on her website here.
You may have another method of transferring patterns that you use. I’d be very happy for you to share it here.
Tomorrow’s post will detail tools for transferring embroidery patterns.
If you’re visiting from Pin Tangle or Craft Gossip, thanks for visiting, and I’d love you to join me regularly. The easiest way to do this is to subscribe so that White Threads arrives in your email inbox each day. At the top of the right column on this page, you’ll see a little envelope and the words “subscribe by email”. Click on either the words or the envelope and follow the instructions (particularly the email confirmation step) to subscribe. I look forward to you joining me regularly!
I also turn ceiling / wall lights off and it is easier to see the pattern through the material
Good idea – thanks Ernestine.
Hi there Yvette,
Now I call that service with a capital S!!
I only wrote to you the other day.
Thanks so much for posting the tutorial.
Do tell, do you have a favourite failsafe method; I guess it depends on the fabric you are using.
Thanks again.
Hi Marysia, I don’t have a failsafe method. I use whichever one seems most appropriate depending on the colour and the surface of the fabric and whether it is see-through or not. Its a matter of weighing up the pros and cons.
There’s more coming tomorrow on tools to use for transferring patterns, so stay tuned!
Tissue paper is easier to stitch through than greaseproof, and if you run a needle along the stitch line, it almost falls apart so the stitches don’t move.
I too use different methods depending upon the material and the technique.
Yes, you’re probably right – thanks. But I don’t often have a supply of tissue paper lying around, whereas there is always greaseproof paper in the kitchen drawer…!