Today’s look at bullion stitch is the third in the series. The first one was on tips for working better bullion stitch, the second was about thread twist and wrapping direction.
Today we will be looking at whether to use a hoop/frame or not. Some people say that you must never use a hoop or frame when working bullions. Others, like me, very much prefer to use them.
I think this is due to there being two majorly different ways of working bullions. One suits having a hoop, and the other does not.
The most common method uses the needle inserted in the fabric and the thread wrapping round the needle as shown.
With this method it is much easier to manipulate the thread and the needle without a hoop.
The method that I use (and teach in my classes and books) was taught to me by Effie Mitrofanis. It uses the needle and thread as shown.
This method is much easier with a hoop, as one hand is above, wrapping the thread, and the other is below holding the needle eye. The hoop gives you an extra hand, holding the fabric flat for you, so you don’t have to worry about it.
So, as you can see, there are definite reasons for using a hoop, or not using a hoop. It just depends which bullion stitch method you use.
great! 🙂
I will try your method. I’ve had mixed fortunes with bullions – sometimes they come out ok, others they look like pigs’ eyes! That’s why i’ve never done anything serious with them, just kept experimenting. Thanks for the tip.
LOL
Hi Maryvonne, Do keep experimenting with them – it is with practise that we often improve. 🙂
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Are you able to explain exactly how Effie’s method is done? I have always made bullions using the “common” method above, and prefer using a hoop but struggle big time. I would love to know how to do them the other way. I asked my mum, who has Effie’s books, but she couldn’t find anything in them about a “different” way of working bullions.
Hi Michelle, This could take a bit of explaining! 🙂
Ok, bring the needle out of the fabric. Insert it a short distance away. Bring the needle point out again right next to where it first emerged. Do not pull the needle through the whole way, but leave it sitting in the fabric, with only the eye below the fabric. Hold the eye below the fabric with one hand, and wrap the thread around the needle with the other. Wrap enough times to span the length of the bullion stitch. To test this, lever the needle tip downwards towards the other end of the stitch to see if the quantity of wraps looks about right. When you are satisfied that you have enough wraps, gently hold the wraps on the needle with the wrapping hand. Bring the other hand up from below, and pull the needle through, keeping your wrapping hand loosely holding the wraps to keep them under control. Pull the thread through until the bullion lies flat against the fabric, and then let go of the wraps. Insert the needle at the second end of the bullion.
Does that help? In my books (“Mountmellick Embroidery: Inspired by Nature” has right-handed instructions, and “The Left-Handed Embroiderer’s Companion” has left-handed instructions) there are step-by-step instructions with diagrams that illustrate this.
Thanks – pretty sure I understand that. I have 2 of your books, but not those ones! But my embroid guild library will have them, so I can check the diagrams to make sure what I’m picturing in my head is correct.
Great – let me know if you have further questions. 🙂