Day 3, Norway research trip

Oslo – Bergen
Friday 16th May 2014

On my second day in Oslo my purpose was to go to the Norsk Folkemuseum. My first need (apart from the huge breakfast in the restaurant – cereal, soy milk, bacon, two fried eggs, some turkey meatballs, two pieces of GF bread, orange juice and lots of fresh pineapple) was to do my food shopping though, as I wouldn’t be able to do much/any in Bergen, due to my days there being a public holiday and then Sunday.

I went to the supermarket in the train station, and found most of what I needed. The day before I’d seen street stalls with fruit and veg much cheaper than in the supermarket so planned to go back there. However, try as I might, I never found those same streets again, nor any others with fruit and veg! So I went back to the same supermarket that I’d been to the day before and bought overpriced grapes. But at least they were grapes!

I went back to my room, made my lunch and organised my bags. I deposited my luggage in the luggage room and checked out.

On my way down to the ferry dock, I found the tourist info centre and asked about Husfliden. They gave me the correct address, which was excellent, and I had a rough idea where that was.

Across the road from the tourist office was a souvenir shop with a Christmas section. I thought that was a likely source for some nice souvenirs. I was right!

Back on my way again, down to the docks. Past the dreadfully ugly town hall. I bought my ticket, and hopped on the ferry. It was a lovely day with blue skies, perfect for a ferry ride!

A lovely day for a boat trip.

From the quay, it was a short walk to the museum. The streets were obviously the salubrious part of town, with very expensive looking houses.

Impressive house on the way to Norsk Folkemuseum

Norsk Folkemuseum

Norsk Folkemuseum

The museum had a nice bookshop which I knew I would visit before leaving! I asked where I should go to see the embroidered clothing and was directed to the right places.

They had a wonderful permanent exhibition of clothing from around the country. It was just a selection, but it was drool-worthy. Obviously they have much much more in the collection, which I would have been able to see, had I had an appointment (not possible at such short notice!).

Folk costume display at Norsk Folkemuseum. The lighting was extremely dark (for conservation purposes), which is why the pictures are so bad.

Folk costume display at Norsk Folkemuseum.

Folk costume display at Norsk Folkemuseum.

After spending a long time looking at the clothing and its embroidery, I headed out into the warm sunshine. The rest of the museum is an open air museum, a bit like in Hancock Shaker Village in Massachusetts, but only a bit. There was a stave church, which I visited. It was made of wood, though the outside looked like it was covered in tar. Inside it was dark, much like the church in Gonder (Ethiopia), but this one had no Ethiopian angels on the ceiling!

Buildings at Norsk Folkemuseum

Stave Church

Inside the Stave Church

At the end of my visit, I went to the museum shop. There were quite a few books on bunader, some in much detail, but I really didn’t think I needed them. There was an extremely fat, heavy one, 499kr (I think), and while it would have been excellent if I was writing about bunader in general, I’m not, so I was happy to let it stay there. I did, however, get a small Laila Duran book, but not the big recent one. It just didn’t seem necessary. I also bought a copy of Bunad magazine.

Back on the boat, and I finally needed to eat something, at about 3pm. That breakfast lasted me well. I had some nuts and a brownie and decided to keep my bread rolls with meat for dinner.

Back on land, I headed for Husfliden in Glas Magazinet shopping centre. I had a lovely browse and eventually settled on some linen thread, which I hoped was what they use for Hardanger (later confirmed), and some Norwegian stripe ribbon. And then another souvenir which was a moose-shaped biscuit cutter.

Next I went to the train station to get my ticket from the vending machine. I’d already paid for it, but needed to pick it up. Happily it was extremely easy – I just typed in the number that was on my receipt.

Back to the hotel to retrieve my luggage and use their lounge area until it was time to board the train. So I sat there and ate my dinner, recharged my camera battery, recharged my phone, did some embroidery and generally outstayed my welcome. However, no-one told me to leave, so I didn’t!

At about 10pm, it was finally what you might call dark. I left at 10:45 and headed around the corner to the train station. My train was already there. I went to the cafe car and was given my room key.

It was small, as you’d expect, with two bunks. I really wasn’t sure if I would have to share, but when the train started moving and no-one else appeared, I figured I was right. Off to sleep I went.

At about 4am I awoke and realised it was lightish outside. It was snowy, wintry blue. The hills were covered in snow, with buildings dotted every now and again. Back to sleep and the next time I awoke it was 6am-ish. The countryside had completely changed; now it was green outside and drizzling.

Travelling across the snowy Hardangervidda during the night.

Finse Station at about 4am, on the way to Bergen

On the train to Bergen in the morning

Next: Norwegian Constitution Day in Bergen.