This morning I was catching up with Mary Corbet’s Needle’nThread, where she revisited an older post of hers on society silk. This was because the author of a book and expert on the subject, Donna Cardwell, contacted her regarding the post.
In her comment, Donna mentioned that there were many different types of silk thread used in those days, and listed a number of them, including something called “Mountmellick silk”.
Mountmellick silk?!
What on earth??
Mountmellick embroidery is whitework embroidery, using white cotton satin jean fabric, with matt (non shiny) cotton thread. Silk thread, however, is shiny and is obviously not cotton. How therefore, do the two relate?
My suggestion is that this was an effort on the part of silk manufacturers to market more of their thread. There is no relationship between Mountmellick embroidery and silk thread, but they were attempting to make one.
My further reading on “Mountmellick silk” has revealed that it was white thread, and the suggestion was made that if you wanted to work Mountmellick in colour, then you should use a different type of silk that came in a variety of colours. (Personally I would never advise working Mountmellick in colour, as one of the things that makes Mountmellick embroidery its own style, is that it is ALWAYS whitework.)
In the dim dark recesses of my mind (and I can’t check this easily as I am away from my office and all my notes on the subject) I seem to remember that at some point, one of the silk manufacturers produced a booklet on Mountmellick embroidery. I have never seen this booklet (though I’d most definitely like to!) and have always wondered how a silk manufacturer handled the subject. My suspicion is that they promoted their silk threads in conjunction with Mountmellick embroidery, therefore making it a less-than-traditional interpretation of the style of needlework.
Silk embroidery is lovely. Mountmellick embroidery is lovely. However, the two styles are separate, and in the interests of keeping Mountmellick traditional in style, they should not be combined.
Here endeth the lesson. (Yes, I realise that was a very preachy post!)
NB: By discussing this subject, I am not intending to make out that Donna Cardwell does not know what she is talking about – that is not my intention at all! I completely acknowledge that Donna was simply telling Mary the different types of silk that were available during the time when society silk was popular. I do not think that this suggests that Donna recommends using silk thread for Mountmellick embroidery. Having never talked with Donna about this, I do not know her opinion on the matter, and maybe she doesn’t actually have one, anyway.
White Threads is the blog of Yvette Stanton, the author, designer, publisher behind Vetty Creations' quality needlework books and embroidery products.
Hi Yvette, I’m so glad to have found your blog! As it’s nearly 3:30am, and I have to work in the morning, I will make this brief for the moment. I am in the process of researching and writing my second book, 100 Years of Table Linens, about all types of table linens in the nineteenth century. I have not finished my research, and know little to nothing about Mountmellick embroidery, save for the fact that I LOVE IT!
I read your email and was trying to find my 1908 Brainerd & Armstrong book, when I happened to look inside the 1904 B&A book. On page 54, an article entitled Mountmellick Embroidery begins, ending on page 68. It actually shows black & white photographs of Mountmellick embroidery, and the first one says “Mountmellick Grape Design 1963.” The very first sentence reads, “The very stylish piece shown in our illustration is worked in colors with “Asiatic” Twisted Embroidery Silk and “Asiatic” Outline Silk. The foundation is heavy white ticking. If preferred, the piece can be worked throughout with White “Asiatic” Mountmellick Silk.”
That’s only the first page. Page 56 has “ountmellick Flower Design 1966.” In our illustration is shown this beautiful design, worked in colors with ‘Asiatic” Twisted Embroidery Silk. The foundation is heavy White Damask.”
Page 61 says “Mountmellick Conventional on Blue, Tan, or White Ticking.”
Interesting stuff. I’m excited to learn all about it and THANK YOU for your expertise and help!
I will write more as my time permits. Take good care!
Donna
Hi Donna, thanks for dropping by!
Well, your 1804 magazine sounds interesting too, but doesn’t sound like traditional Mountmellick embroidery at all! 🙂
Mountmellick embroidery is gorgeous, and it is well worth looking into. Take a look at the Mountmellick pages on my website, and that will give you a good start in knowing what Mountmellick is really like!
http://www.vettycreations.com.au/me.html
Then whatever questions you have, ask away! I look forward to continuing our conversation when you have the time.
Yvette
Hi Yvette, I was thinking about this subject and remembered that I have some pictures that I took in 2011 of an antique pillow cover that belongs to a friend of mine. It’s embroidered on white satin jean fabric, in Mountmellick stitches, but it’s done in white and purple floss. I can email them to you if you send me your email address. Thought you might like to see it. 🙂
Donna
Hi Donna, Yes please! I’ll email you my address. Thanks very much!
Hi Yvette, I emailed the pics. Have a lot more for you ~ not actual examples but from the embroidery books of the day. Will email shortly. Enjoy! 🙂
Donna