White Threads

When we first arrived in Ethiopia, we headed straight off on what is known as the Northern historical route. We felt that doing this before we started settling in to our daily routines would be helpful, as we could get an understanding of more than just the culture and people of Addis Ababa (the capital).

We left Sydney on Boxing Day, and arrived here on the 27th. The flights were all fine – thankfully the girls travel well. We stopped in Bangkok and Dubai. Not long enough to do anything other than get off, go through another bag check, then go on to the waiting lounge ready to board again.

We arrived in Addis and were picked up by our friend and his kids. He was also picking up his wife, who was on our flight and had been home for Christmas.

They took us to the school which my husband will be teaching at, where they live. We had a tour, reshuffled our bags so we could leave most with them, and then they took us to the guesthouse where we were staying the night. My aunt, was also staying there at the time, so we were able to meet up with her and her friend, who she is staying with. They cobbled together dinner for us, and the girls were so tired that they fell asleep while eating, and our youngest fell asleep on her feet and fell over!

The next morning we awoke at 4am to have a quick breakfast and off to the airport again. We flew to Bahir Dar, which is north. It is a malarial area, so we had to take antimalarials for about 10days because of that. There is a large lake there, Lake Tana, which has many small islands with monasteries on them. Ethiopia is strongly Orthodox Christian, not unlike Greece or Russia. They are very enthusiastic followers of their faith.

We visited two monasteries on two different islands, then tried hippo spotting, but the hippos were shy that day.

In the afternoon we went on a boneshaking one hour car trip out to the Blue Nile Falls. They used to be the second most spectacular falls in Africa, until a few years ago when they dammed the river and now only 15% of the water is allowed over the falls. The rest is diverted to a dam to go through turbines to generate electricity. It has been devastating for the local community, as the falls just aren’t very exciting anymore, so tourism has dropped off.

We had a fun cultural exchange there, with some teenagers becoming enamoured with our two little pale girls. They had photos with them and on the walk back to the car there was a stream of them wanting to hold the girls’ hands.

Next morning we were off on another flight to Gonder. This is a town with many ancient palaces from past kings. It is world heritage listed, so receives funding from Unesco. This means that some work has been done on the restoration of the palaces, as it was bombed during an occupation.

From Gonder we went on a boneshaking 3 hour drive to Debark in the Simien Mountains. We spent two nights in the amazing Simien National Park, seeing gelada monkeys, walia ibex, lammergeyers (bone eating birds!) and the incredible scenery. The northern escarpment of the park (which we were practically staying on top of) is about 3000m up, with drops away of 1000 – 1500m to the plateau below. Just amazing!

We saw some magnificent sunrises and sunsets here.

Then back to Gonder on the same road. Joy oh joy.

Next morning we flew out to Lalibela, which is home to world heritage listed rock-hewn churches. Imagine a HUGE rock, with a church dug out of it. And they’re not just ugly lumps, they are intricately and exquisitely carved, inside and out, with oodles of symbolism for every small detail.

You have to take your shoes off to enter each church, and the Lonely Planet said that there are sometimes self-appointed shoe minders who you need to tip, at the end. Well, we got one. It seemed like our guide wasn’t particularly happy about it, but she tagged along the whole way with us. At the end, my husband TRIED to tip her 3 times, but she just refused. We actually think she may have wanted the privilege of going around with the two pale little girls!

Next stop was Axum, right up in the north, only about 75km from the Eritrean border. Axum (also with world heritage sites) has these amazing tall stone obelisk-type things called stelae. They are burial markers for Axumite kings. The Ark of the Covenant is also claimed to be held in a chapel in Axum, but as only one priest is allowed to see it and care for it, there is no way of verifying it!

Our guide here was a retired archaeologist who was a fascinating storyteller. He interwove history and legend in a completely entertaining way.

Next day we were back to Addis, where our friend picked us up again, and took us to our apartment. And thus began the process of settling in.

Walking down the street with my younger daughter past a couple of chickens scratching beside the road.

Watching the giant tortoises in the yard as one tries to climb on top of the other… If either of the children asks what they are doing, I’ll liken it to Yertle the Turtle and his nine-turtle stack.

Being greeted “Hello!” by shop owners standing at the door of their shops, as I walk past.

A schoolgirl shyly coming up to my blonde-headed daughter and giving her a kiss on the cheek. Just because she’s cute and blonde.

Seeing a hair product in a small supermarket called “snake oil”! If it wasn’t such a large container (about a litre) I’d buy one just for the novelty value!

A late night raucous as all the local dogs decide to howl together.

Orthodox calls to prayer at 5am… and throughout the day.

An air raid siren going off in the distance. (No idea what it means yet, but no-one else gets worried, so neither do I!)

Massive traffic jam filling an intersection, where it seems the traffic police like to create a jam, just so they can sort it out.

Cars nosing their way across an intersection. Whoever is boldest gets to go first. Or whoever honks loudest.

Flocks of goats (tails up) and sheep (tails down) enveloping me as I walk down the street footpath.

Donkeys crossing a road in single file. No-one telling them where to go. They just go. And the cars just have to wait.

Street stalls set out on sheets. Potatoes piled high, one on top of the other. Tomatoes carefully and neatly arranged in groups of four.

Street-side butcher stalls with carcasses hanging. Butcher standing waiting for his next customer.

Kids playing happily in school.

Old ladies in traditional white clothing, greeting one another on the street. A kiss to the left, to the right, to the left and to the right again.

Waving to the compound guards and saying “tenastillen!” (hello!)

Buying eggs (ink’oolal) and coming home with 10 eggs in a plastic bag. Some big, some small. Some white, some brown, some speckled. Some with feathers and grass. Don’t trip!

Smoky haze as you look out across the city.

Eucalyptus trees on the hillsides. And everywhere else.

Beautiful sunrises and sunsets, at about 6:30 at either end of the day.