The other day I received an interesting question in one of the comments on bullion stitch: thread twist and wrapping direction. It was from Michael of the delightfully named http://www.wormspit.com. He wrote:
I’ve been working with silk and making various kinds of thread for different purposes. So far, most of my threads have been first-twisted Z and then plied S, or twisted as a very loose Z-twist single. Are there particular techniques other than bouillon where you think thread-ply makes a significant difference?
What a wonderfully technical question. My first thought was “I dunno!”, but on further consideration, I realised that yes, there were other instances where thread twist has an effect on embroidery stitches.
The most obvious stitch is the French knot, because it is so similar to bullion knots. Using a thread of the opposite twist, yet the same wrapping direction, would make a difference to the appearance of the knot.
The other main stitch that I can think of is any sort of couching stitch where the tie-down stitch is long and slanted across the laid stitch. This could include Roumanian couching, New England laid stitch, Bokhara couching and Indian filling.
With these stitches, a thread or stitch is laid along the fabric, then a shorter stitch is worked across the laid stitch, on an angle, to hold it down. Depending on which way you work the angled stitch, it will either meld into the laid stitch, or be pronounced across the top of it. Conversely, by keeping the stitch angle the same, but by using the opposite twist of thread, you can create the same difference of effect – the stitch will either meld into the laid stitch, or be pronounced across the top of it.
Another stitch where thread twist will make a difference is stem stitch/outline stitch. These are both linear stitches, where each subsequent stitch overlaps with half of the previous ones. With stem stitch, when working from right to left, the needle emerges above the previous stitch. Outline stitch is basically the same stitch, but the needle emerges below the previous stitch.
With an S twist thread (as most threads are) stem stitch creates an effect where each stitch is pronounced and separate, much like the appearance of a 2 ply cord. With outline stitch, the stitches meld together. Changing to Z twist thread would mean that stem would give the melded appearance, and outline would give the cord-like appearance.
Yet another stitch where it could conceivably make a difference (oh, this is fun – thanks Michael!) is Jessica stitch, which is a needlepoint stitch. It basically is a wide stem/outline stitch worked usually around the edge of a circle to produce a swirl-like effect. Because of its similarity to stem stitch, changing the thread twist would have a similar effect.
While the effect would be minimal, unless using a very thick thread, it would also have an effect on the twisted, purl edge of buttonhole stitch. Also any whipped stitch, such as whipped buttonhole, whipped stem, whipped running stitch etc.
I’m sure there are others too, so please make your suggestions in the comments.
Michael, I hope that has answered your question. If it brings up more questions, please ask them. I think I like your questions, because they are so thought provoking!
White Threads is the blog of Yvette Stanton, the author, designer, publisher behind Vetty Creations' quality needlework books and embroidery products.
Any form of knot, or stitch that incorporates a knot such as the Palestrina family of stitches, will be effected in the same way as bullion knots.
In Japanese embroidery, were we twist our own threads, a z-twist is used in most cases but we switch to an s-twist for stitching knots.
Each time we make a stitch, we twist the thread slightly causing the twist to become looser or tighter, depending on whether you are using an s- or z-twisted thread. (Is the effect reversed for left-handed stitchers?). We are taught to give the thread a slight twist in the opposite direction to counter this and maintain an even twist. I read on the Plimoth Plantation blog that the volunteer stitchers on the reproduction jacket were taught to do the same thing when stitching reverse chain stitch to give a neater outline for the detached button hole stitch.