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Hardanger
What is Hardanger embroidery?
Hardangersom (or Hardangersaum), is Norwegian for 'embroidery from Hardanger', and refers to the style of needlework that many of us know as Hardanger embroidery.
Hardanger embroidery is a style of cutwork embroidery that originates from the Hardanger region of Norway. Traditionally, it involves white embroidery on white fabric, where the removal of some of the fabric's threads produce a lacy effect.
Traditional Hardanger embroidery
Hardanger was originally worked in bands of embroidery across items such as aprons, shirts, and household linen. It often featured:
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Runner featuring traditional-style Hardanger embroidery designed by Yvette Stanton |
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- diamond, triangular or square motifs of cutwork
- satin stitching in rectangular blocks (kloster blocks) and other shapes
- pulled thread work in the form of four-sided stitch
- cable stitch
- eyelets
- borders of needleweaving and four-sided stitch along each long side of the embroidery (which were usually the top and bottom).
Within the parameters described above, there was a huge amount of room for creativity in design of Hardanger needlework patterns. The designs are hugely varied, and very beautiful. The filling stitches used in the cutwork were still very simple - often just knotted picots,or diagonal twisted bars, or none!
Hardangersom was worked in white linen thread on white linen fabric (or cream on cream) of a single weave i.e. not the double or basket weave of contemporary "Hardanger" fabric.
The earliest surviving pieces of Hardanger date from the eighteenth century. It is possible that this style of embroidery was first developed to imitate the Italian needle laces known as punto in aria, reticella, and similar styles of work. However because the Hardanger region is geographically isolated, due to the fjords found there, the style of embroidery developed and became quite distinct.
Contemporary Hardanger embroidery
Contemporary designs are very different to traditional Hardanger needlework patterns. In the last century or so, many changes have occurred in the way Hardanger pieces are designed and worked. Coloured and novelty threads and coloured fabrics are now commonly used. New stitches have been developed, including buttonholed edges. Hardanger sometimes is worked together with other techniques such as cross stitch.
The buttonhole edge so common in contemporary Hardanger did not develop until much later. It is one of the main things that has changed hardanger so much. According to information collected by Lucy Lyons Willis, traditional Hardanger embroidery designs never used a stitch like this because it would have used up too much precious thread. The buttonhole edge means that Hardanger pieces can now be practically any shape you desire! |
Hardanger embroidery cushion in soft greens with silk and beads designed by Yvette Stanton |
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Learning Hardanger embroidery
Yvette Stanton provides the following methods for learning Hardanger embroidery.
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- Hardanger embroidery classes. Yvette regularly teaches embroidery at shops and guild groups around Australia. She is an accredited tutor with the Embroiderers' Guild of NSW.
- Private Hardanger embroidery tuition. Yvette is based in Sydney, Australia. If you are or will be in the neighbourhood and would like to organise personal Hardanger tuition, please contact Vetty Creations.
Hardanger-How-To discussion group
Join the Hardanger-How-To discussion group to have all your Hardanger questions answered. Moderated by Yvette Stanton, the group provides an opportunity to:
- ask about that Hardanger problem that has been bugging you!
- get help for your current Hardanger project
- talk about your favourite Hardanger needlework patterns
- share your Hardanger successes with other Hardanger embroiderers
- help others with their Hardanger embroidery
- learn more about Hardanger
- ask Yvette Stanton about any of her Hardanger needlework patterns
- ask Yvette about any of the information contained in her book "Elegant Hardanger Embroidery"
Why not join the Hardanger-How-To discussion group today?!
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